Hoi An photographs beautifully and that's sort of the problem. Everyone shows up for the lanterns and leaves without ever seeing the town empty. Go before 6am once and you'll understand.
I made this guide in two parts: a fun quest list, and a typical attractions itinerary for those of you who are short on time. Plus a food list.
Time your Ancient Town visits around the crowds, not the other way around.
Locals setting up shop, no tourists, the yellow walls doing something unreal in this light.
Thanh Cao Lầu at 26 Thái Phiên uses the real well water. Ask for crispy pork skin if they have it.
Rent a bike and ride through the rice fields. Locals wave. It's cool enough this early to actually enjoy it.
Roof seat, cà phê sữa đá, watch the street below before the light goes gold.
Cross it once the day crowd has cleared out. Completely different place after dark.
Most day tourists leave by 9pm.Coconut ice cream, grilled skewers, a walk along the river to close the day.
Mostly single-dish spots. Google the name, pick whichever has good reviews, go.
Hoi An is a proper trip from Saigon. If you route through anyway, come walk with me for a morning.
Da Nang is next door, see the Da Nang guide. Or start at the Vietnam guide hub.